Growing out hair
Growing Out Short Hair: Cute Styles for Every Awkward Stage
Pixie to bob to shoulders, one stage at a time, with a style to wear at each step so you never have to hide under a hat.
The trick to growing out short hair is to give each stage its own style and its own trim plan. Ask your stylist for shape trims every 8 to 12 weeks, use clips, headbands and texture for the in-between days, and treat each stage as a cut in its own right. Below is a stage-by-stage plan.
Most people give up around month three, when the pixie turns into a mullet or the bob flips out. That is normal. A few small tools and the right words at the salon get you through it.
Stage one: the grown-out pixie
The textured crop
About one to three months in, a pixie gets longer on top and starts to cover the ears. Keep the sides tidy and let the top grow. Messy texture makes the length look intentional.
How to ask your stylist: "Please clean up the sides and nape, and leave the top as long as you can. I am growing it out."
The side-swept fringe
When the front gets long enough to brush the eyebrows, sweep it to one side. A small amount of paste or cream keeps it in place. This is a quiet, easy way to use your new length.
How to ask your stylist: "Blend my fringe into the sides so I can sweep it across, with no hard line."
Stage two: the awkward in-between
The tousled, ear-tucked shag
Between about three and six months, the sides cover the ears and the back reaches the nape. Embrace shaggy layers. Tuck one side behind your ear and let the other fall forward.
How to ask your stylist: "A soft shag shape, with the layers kept long enough to grow, and the nape tidied only a little."
Clips, barrettes and headbands
This is the stage for accessories. A pair of small barrettes pins the front back. A wide headband hides a growing fringe and adds polish. These need no tools and take thirty seconds.
How to ask your stylist: "Can you leave the front long enough to pin back? I plan to wear clips."
Stage three: the bob
The chin-length bob
Around six to nine months, you reach the chin. A bob is a real cut at this point, not a stopgap. Keep the ends blunt or softly textured to stop them flipping out.
How to ask your stylist: "A chin-length bob with a bit of weight at the bottom, and slightly longer in the front."
The tucked bob with waves
A bit of wave stops a growing bob from looking stiff. A medium barrel iron or a volumizing brush adds shape and also makes the ends curl under instead of flipping out.
How to ask your stylist: "Layers that let my bob curve inward, and a cut that works with a light wave."
The half-up mini bun
Once hair reaches the chin, you can gather the top half into a small knot or clip. It keeps hair off your face and gives a lift at the crown.
How to ask your stylist: "Keep my layers long enough to gather in a half-up style."
Stage four: the lob and beyond
The collarbone lob
At this length, you can wear hair down, tucked, or in a short ponytail. A long bob is a classic that lets you keep growing. Trim the ends lightly to keep them even.
How to ask your stylist: "A lob at my shoulders, dusting only. I would like to keep all the length I can."
Long layers for the next step
When hair passes the shoulders, add a few long layers so the length does not look heavy and triangular. It is best to keep them soft and low.
How to ask your stylist: "A few long layers that begin below my chin. Nothing short on top."
Styling at home
You need little for this plan. A volumizing hot brush gives shape to a bob and smooths flyaways in a few minutes. A light oil on the ends controls frizz and flips. Use a heat protectant first, and keep heat settings low.
Best value blowout
Revlon One-Step Volumizer PLUS 2.0
A dryer-and-brush in one with a 2.4 inch oval head and low, medium, high and cool settings. Revlon claims it cuts blowout time; owners often mention how quickly it adds smooth volume at the crown.
- Dries and smooths in one pass
- Cool setting helps set the shape
- Heavier than a plain brush
- Best on shoulder-length or shorter hair
Shine and heat protection
Olaplex No.7 Bonding Oil
A lightweight styling oil. Retailers list heat protection up to 450F/230C when used with hot tools, plus shine and frizz control on dry ends.
- Lightweight finish
- Works on damp or dry hair
- A little goes a long way, so too much looks greasy
A simple trim schedule
Most stylists suggest planning your appointments in advance. In the first three months, book one shape-up to tidy the nape and sides. From months four to nine, book a trim every 8 to 12 weeks, taking off as little as possible while keeping a consistent shape. After you pass the chin, many people can stretch to 12 weeks. Tell your stylist your goal length at every visit so they do not cut more than needed.
Daily care while you wait
Short hair that is growing out gets more friction from collars, scarves and pillows. A smooth pillowcase can help reduce tangles on the sides and back. Use a gentle conditioner on the ends and avoid brushing wet hair with a stiff brush. If your hair feels rough or breaks easily, a deep conditioning mask once a week can help it feel softer, though it will not speed up growth. Be patient with cowlicks: they often show up more when hair is at the in-between length and settle as it gets longer.
If your hair is fine, a light texturizing spray helps the stages look styled rather than flat. If it is thick, ask your stylist to remove weight at the back so it does not poof out at the neck. Curly hair will often look shorter and wider at the awkward stage, so a soft, defined curl cream and a diffuser can help the shape stay neat.
Quick fixes for bad hair days
Every stage has a rough day. When the sides stick out, wet them slightly and press them flat with a comb while you blow-dry. When the back flips up, use a round brush or a volumizing brush to turn it under. When the top is flat, flip your head over and dry the roots upside down. When nothing works, a headband, a scarf or a pair of clips is a perfectly good answer. Having two or three go-to accessories by the door means you never have to reach for a hat out of frustration.
It also helps to try a new part. Moving your part to the other side, or switching from a center part to a side part, can change how the length falls and hide uneven growth. Test it on dry hair before you style, and give it a few days to settle.
Finally, keep a few photos of the cuts you love at each length. They give you something to aim for, and they give your stylist a clear picture of the shape you want at every step.
Mistakes that make growing out harder
- Skipping trims entirely. Uneven, split ends make hair look shorter and thinner.
- Cutting it yourself in frustration. Wait for the next salon appointment, and ask for the smallest cleanup.
- Overheating. Frequent high heat can make ends brittle and break off.
- Comparing yourself to photos. Hair grows at different speeds, so work on your own timeline.
Want inspiration for your starting point? See short hairstyles for women, or look ahead to celebrity hairstyles for medium and long hair.
Questions people ask
How long does it take to grow out short hair?
Hair grows about half an inch a month on average, so going from a pixie to shoulder length usually takes a year or more. Individual growth varies.
Should I keep getting trims while growing my hair out?
Yes, but small ones. A shape-up every 8 to 12 weeks keeps the style looking planned and stops the back from getting shaggy.
What is the most awkward stage?
Most people say it is the mid-length stage, when hair flips out at the neck and sits at the ears. Layers, clips and a little product help a lot.
Do I need to talk to a doctor about slow growth?
If you notice thinning, shedding or scalp changes, talk to a dermatologist. Styling tips cannot speed growth.
